My (near) futbol melee

I was saddened to read of the deaths, at the time of this writing, of 73 football fans at a match between rival teams in Egypt.  The BBC reporter described the rivalry between the two teams as "bitter."  With 73 fans dead, I'd say kudos for the typically dry British approach to that detail.

This got me thinking about my first trip to Sao Paulo, Brazil, a few years ago and the opportunity that was mine to go to a "futbol" game, where the rivalry was, well, bitter.  I've been to Sao Paulo several times now but as I recall my first trip was in 2007 to participate in a business conference.  Our conference hosts had arranged for us to attend a futbol match between the famed Sao Paulo team, Palmeiras, and one of their most hated rivals.  Sadly, the name of said team escapes me - that's what I get for not faithfully blogging back then.

Upon learning that we'd be going to the match, I was really excited.  I'd been introduced to Australian Rules Football  a couple of years before while in Melbourne and had the time of my life at that match.  I figured this was going to be much like that.

That vision began to change when the hotel concierge learned that my colleagues and I were attending the game.  They checked our tickets to insure we were sitting on the Palmeiras side.  We were then given very explicit instructions about the colors we could not where - no green, white, red, or black.  We were told this as if our lives depended on it. Turns out this was wise guidance.  Then things got interesting - the hotel advised that we would be using their bus to get to/from the match and P.S. they had hired bodyguards - yes, bodyguards - to accompany us.  Wait, what?  This futbol match was now turning into some bizarre death match event.

So with all this in mind, caution was tossed to the wind and to the match we went.  The "U"-shaped stadium was full of Palmeiras fans.  The visiting team's fans got one section of the "U" - at top of the "U" on the left.  Said seating section was topped by barbed wire and had armed police in full riot gear surrounding it at every other row.  The section next to it was empty - a veritable no man's land. Peppered throughout the rest of the stadium were more of the riot cops.  Clearly this was no ordinary game.  In spite of the huge firearm presence, the vibe was electric.  That electric feeling went nuclear when Palmeiras was the first to score.  The entire stadium shot to their and in one fell swoop moved towards the top of the "U," lunging en masse at the hapless visiting fans.  That paltry crowd had the testicular fortitude to start throwing things.  It was clear that this was not going to end well.  It was also clear that this was going to be one of the wildest nights ever.

It was clear that we needed to be Palmeiras fans and we were.  Each time our team scored, we rose to our feet and joined the crush toward the opposing team.  I picked up some Portuguese that night that I won't be repeating in mixed company.  It was an amazing night.  Palmeiras won.  It was incredible to be a part of it.  As we clawed our way out of the stadium, I was never so glad for the bodyguards.  There was gunfire, there was fighting, a fire or two in the street - apparently, a typical night at a futbol match.  Like I said, I loved it.  I'm ready to go again.